Oman has been an important maritime nation for thousands of years, its sailors venturing east to Iran, India, the Indies and China, bringing back porcelain, fabrics, spices, timbers, precious metals and gemstones to send to the rest of the Middle East and on to Europe. It was from Oman, legend has it, that the original Sinbad the Sailor set forth on his journeys.
Its wealth and strategic position made Oman an attractive prize for foreign powers and in 1507 many of its ports, including Muttrah, in Muscat, were occupied by the Portuguese. Expelling the Portuguese in 1650, Oman rivalled European nations as the dominant power in the Indian Ocean for the next 200 years. It controlled trade and territories along the African, Iranian and Indian coasts and, because of its commercial importance, attracted immigrants from those territories and elsewhere, many of whom settled in Muttrah.
Declining as a power from the mid nineteenth century, Oman effectively closed itself off from the rest of the world until 1970, with the result that much of the history and character of Oman is well-preserved, especially in Muttrah.
The Corniche
A visit to Muttrah should begin with a walk along its waterfront promenade, the corniche. With its gold-topped cupolas and groups of people fishing, chatting or simply strolling, the corniche is especially attractive at night when the harbour waters reflect the lights of the town. The corniche also provides a useful vantage point for surveying the harbour and the town.
Muttrah Harbour
Muttrah Harbour is a circular, deep water, natural anchorage, where tankers, barges, ferries and cruise ships mingle with traditional Arab dhows. From sunrise to 10 am each day the harbour is home to a bustling fish market where visitors can see, hear and smell the catch of the day from the rich marine life of the Arabian Sea being unloaded and sold.
Al Lawatiya Mosque
Dominating the skyline on the left of the waterfront area is the Al Lawatiya Mosque with its striking gold-flecked, teal blue minaret and dome. This mosque is the central place of worship for members of the Lawati community who migrated from India over 300 years ago. Many members of the community reside behind the mosque in a maze of narrow streets which, unfortunately, visitors are discouraged from entering. The Lawati also built the attractive 18th century white-washed balconied merchant houses fronting the corniche beside the mosque.
Muttrah Fort
Overlooking the town is the sixteenth century Muttrah Fort which seems to grow naturally out of the rock of the mountain on which it sits. The fort, built by the Portuguese during their occupation, is under renovation. While most of it is closed to visitors, it is possible to visit, via a steep 100 step climb, a restored watchtower with panoramic views of the city and harbour.
Al Dhalam Souq
Muttrah is home to the Al Dhalam Souq, one of the oldest souqs in Oman. Al Dahlam means darkness and the name reflects the effect of the souq’s palm frond covered roof and twisting, narrow alleyways. Here, shops and stalls offer, as they have for centuries, jewellery, precious metals, antique coins, handicrafts, artefacts, carpets, incense, perfume, fabrics and lamps seemingly straight from the Arabian nights.
The best time to visit the Al Dhalam Souq is in the evening when it takes on an enchanted atmosphere as Omani women shop for the colourful, delicately embroidered cloaks and shawls which contribute to the rich variety of dress styles in Oman. The souq also provides the opportunity to witness Oman’s diverse immigration history as facial features and skin shades from Africa, Iran and India mingle with those of the Middle East.
