Mention Fiji as a holiday destination and most people think of white sand beaches and coconut palms. But there is another Fiji: the Nausori Highlands, the south west section of the mountainous interior of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island. It surprises many people to learn that mountainous regions make up over 80% of the 10,400 square kilometre area of Viti Levu. Two thirds of the island is classified as "steepland", having slopes greater than 18%.
The product of violent volcanic activity millions of years ago, the Nausori Highlands rise abruptly from the coastal plain reaching 900 metres above sea level. Not surprisingly the overwhelming majority of Viti Levu’s population lives on the narrow coastal plains, while the interior is sparsely inhabited.
The Nausori Highlands is accessible by just three roads, all unsealed and all ending at Bukuya, a village consisting of a mixture of corrugated iron and traditional thatched bures spilling down the mountainside, home to about 700 people.
A convenient day trip through the Nausori Highlands is to take the Nausori Highlands Road from Nadi to Bukuya, and then return to the coast via the Bukuya-Ba Road or the Bukuya-Sigatoka Road.
Nadi to Bukuya
The Nausori Highlands Road is off the Nadi Back Road and begins surrounded by sugar cane farms The journey from Nadi to Bukuya is approximately 45 kilometres but can take up to 3-4 hours, depending on the condition of the road.
After 5 kilometres the road leaves the fields of sugar cane behind and enters the grassed foothills of the highlands. At 11 kilometres the road begins to wind steeply upwards with short stretches of bitumen in the steepest parts to allow vehicles to grip the surface. At the top of the scarp visitors should stop to take in the magnificent views back towards the ocean and inland to the mountains.
For the next 5 or so kilometres travellers pass through forests and then lush tropical jungle.
After 23 kilometres the jungle gives way to grassland where slatted wooden bridges straddle rushing streams. It is common to see the occasional horse tethered by the side of the road but no sign of its owner, although you might pass the occasional pig-hunter on horseback followed by his dogs.
Bukuya to Ba
The Bukuya to Ba road is 30 kilometres long but the journey can take 2-3 hours. Of the three roads through the highlands this is probably the roughest but the most dramatic. For much of the journey the road follows the ridge of the highest mountain range, so that you will not so much be travelling through the Nausori Highlands as above them.
The road culminates at Navala, the most photographed village in Fiji because it is the only one which still consists solely of thatched bures.
Bukuya to Sigatoka
Bukuya to Sigatoka is 66 kilometres. This area receives more rain and has a greater numbers of rivers and streams, so roads and bridges are more likely to be under water after wet weather. However, the last 20 kilometres of the road is sealed and offers a picturesque journey through the Sigatoka River valley.
Accommodation in the Nausori Highlands
Travellers wishing to stay longer in the Nausori Highlands have two options.
- The Bukuya Alpine Eco Centre offers traditional Fijian village stays.
- Heaven's Edge is a backpackers resort with panoramic views of the highlands.
Driving in the Nausori Highlands
- All roads are unsealed and only accessible by 4 wheel drive.
- Roads in the Nausori Highlands, like many roads in Fiji, can be extremely rough with bare rock surfaces, loose stones, potholes, puddles and stretches of mud.
- There are no fuel or food services on any of the roads through the Nausori Highlands. Travelers should ensure they have adequate supplies of water and fuel.
- Take a picnic lunch as there are many beautiful riverside locations perfect for stopping.
- Roads and bridges can be washed away after storms. Before setting off always check that roads are navigable with the Fiji Visitors Bureau in Nadi (tel. 672 2433) or local police posts.
